Accesories 2012-13

Tres Haute CHic photo shoot of French Collection

Dior 2012

Karl Lager field's fall 2012

campaigns

Karl Lagerfeld’s Fall 2012 Campaign For Hogan is Already Out, Featuring His New Fave Saskia de Brauw

By DHANI MAU Friday, Mar 2, 2012 / 3:15 PM

• inShare8

Karl Lagerfeld debuted his fall/winter 2012 collection for Hogan yesterday in Paris. Today the campaign, for clothes that won’t be available until at least August, landed in our inbox. Of course, we’re not complaining. We’re digging Saskia de Brauw’s androgynous look here and apparently Lagerfeld really loves it, too. In the past few months, he’s shot her for his spring 2012 Chanel campaign, the March 2012 cover of Numero and now this.

Though now we’re a little more curious about his relationship with Katy Perry, who showed up to a dinner in Paris last night to celebrate Lagerfeld’s latest Hogan collection. Perhaps she’ll have a place somewhere in Karl Lagerfeld’s brand(s)?

Click through for the full campaign. What do you think of Lagerfeld’s sporty, luxurious collection for Hogan?

Fashion show Paris 2012

So many of Paris’s next generation of designers showing in these early days seem stuck in a black hole—offering little but layers of ill-defined tunics, skirts, shirts, and whatever else, all in varying textures of black.

From left: Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Cédric Charlier, Getty Images (2); Reuters / Landov

It was the kind of collection that exuded both peace and confidence, suggesting that it was created by a designer who felt no burning necessity to be loud, controversial, or surly in order to get noticed.

It was also pleasure to see the designer Cédric Charlier—formerly of Cacharel—show a collection under his own name that was confidently and quietly refined. He resisted any desire to shout his aesthetic intentions, instead quietly reciting them.

Charlier greeted his guests as they arrived—a particularly gracious gesture and one that suggested he felt sure enough about his collection that he did not need to be wholly ensconced backstage for last-minute stitching and tweaking. No Project Runway–style chaos for this young man!

His collection was tailored and minimal, with echoes of Jil Sander and Celine in its silhouettes, but also a slightly glamorous sensibility that was decidedly his own.

Navy coats with high collars were dotted with copper-colored metallic buttons. A copper-colored, ribbed turtleneck peeked from beneath a knee-skimming navy coat. Elegant sheaths bore the marks of copper zippers snaking up the back and around the neckline.

It's not often that a new designer appears on the tightly controlled Paris fashion calendar—rarer still when he arrives with such a clear voice. But Charlier injected energy into the season, not by doing anything shocking but by adding another point of view that did not rely on a palette of black and a subversive attitude.

So many of Paris's next generation of designers showing in these early days seem stuck in a black hole—offering little but layers of ill-defined tunics, skirts, shirts, and whatever else, all in varying textures of black. Each has something to recommend them. At Limi Feu, designer Limi Yamamoto (daughter of Yohji) this season injects a bit of color into her work, along with references to cafe society, with her rounded-back coats and jaunty hats. Nicolas Andreas Taralis offers distinctively cut jackets with asymmetrical lines that spiral around the torso. And perhaps the best that can be said about Nicola Formichetti at Mugler was that with his black, birdlike runway creatures, he did not reference Lady Gaga. Since he is her stylist, this has been his most pronounced claim to famebut also his most unfortunate inspiration. This collection—which also emphasized white and included strokes of tomato red and marigold yellow—hinted at strong tailoring but still did not fully commit to the idea of clothes over costume.

NEXT

• 1
• 2

View As Single Page